{"id":36863,"date":"2017-09-03T09:00:37","date_gmt":"2017-09-03T13:00:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.adorama.mom\/alc\/?p=36863"},"modified":"2017-09-12T09:12:59","modified_gmt":"2017-09-12T13:12:59","slug":"filter-tips-by-allen-rokach-with-anne-millman","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.adorama.mom\/alc\/filter-tips-by-allen-rokach-with-anne-millman\/","title":{"rendered":"Filter Tips by Allen Rokach with Anne Millman"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Despite the many ways we can improve our images with after-capture software programs, it\u2019s still a good idea to get the best possible results while you\u2019re shooting. It will save you lots of time and energy and you\u2019ll wind up with a stronger final product.<\/p>\n<p>One of the simplest ways to get those better images from the start is by using filters and other add-ons that should be part of your regular photographic tool box. They are small, light and easy to take along. They vary in cost but will repay your investment many times over. (If you\u2019re shopping for new filters, buy the thinnest ones you can afford).<\/p>\n<p>Here are some of suggestions together with photos I took with this gear during my recent trip to Scotland:<\/p>\n<p><strong>UV Filters:<\/strong> These clear filters screw onto your lenses and keep them clean and protected. You should place one on each lens you own. They don\u2019t affect your images but are a good investment to lengthen the life of your lenses. The brands I use are B+W,\u00a0 Hoya and Tiffen.<\/p>\n<p>[metaslider id=36979]<\/p>\n<p><strong>Circular Polarizing Filters:<\/strong> These filters reduce glare on foliage; help control reflections on water or other shiny surfaces; and deepen the blue of the sky so clouds pop out. Even though you lose up to 2 f\/stops of exposure, these filters are indispensable if you regular shoot outdoors, especially in gardens. You can see the effect on your image by rotating the polarizer. Just turn it until you have the result you want.<\/p>\n<p>[metaslider id=36967]<\/p>\n<p>[metaslider id=36971]<\/p>\n<p>[metaslider id=36974]<\/p>\n<p>[metaslider id=36984]<\/p>\n<p>[metaslider id=37031]<\/p>\n<p><strong>Neutral Density Filters:<\/strong> These screw-on lenses are tinted gray and, therefore, reduce the amount of available light for your image. They come in various degrees of gray so you can control the reduction of light from two to ten f\/stops. You can purchase a series of these filters for the widest range of options. Or you can combine two or more neutral density filters for the exposure time you want.<\/p>\n<p>[metaslider id=36996]<\/p>\n<p>Neutral density filters are used primarily to let you slow down the shutter speed so you can take longer exposures, primarily in daylight. For example, if you want to capture the sense of movement in water, pedestrians on a street or cars on a highway, a neutral density filter will enable you to portray these elements as a blur.<\/p>\n<p>[metaslider id=36989]<\/p>\n<p><strong>Graduated Neutral Density Filters:<\/strong> These are similar to neutral density filters with only half the filter tinted gray and the darkest portion at the top, gradually fading toward the middle of the lens. They are used to equalize exposure on the upper and lower portions of your image when there\u2019s an exposure difference of two or more f\/stops. They are primarily used to darken the sky if it\u2019s much brighter than the land (with the grey part on top), but you can reverse the filter so it darkens the land if that\u2019s the brighter portion of your image, as it may be if you are shooting the beach or surf.<\/p>\n<p>[metaslider id=37001]<\/p>\n<p>[metaslider id=37006]<\/p>\n<p>These come as screw-on filters, which I think limit your control too much because the dividing line on the filter is preset at the middle. I prefer using a rectangular graduated neutral density filter, which you can either mount on a filter holder that screws onto the lens and adjust to the position you want. Better yet, I just hold the filter in front of the lens with one hand, putting it just where I want. This makes it possible to get one graduated neutral density filter that covers your largest lens and use if for your smaller lenses as well. If you\u2019re shopping for this filter look for Cokin or Hitech brands.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Screw-on Magnifying Lenses:<\/strong> Like filters, screw-on lenses can be used to increase magnification on other lenses and also so you can come in closer on your subject and enhance the bokeh in an image. They generally come in three magnifications (+1, +2 and +3 diopters) and you can combine them for greater impact &#8212; put the one with greatest magnification on your lens first; then add others in decreasing magnification.<\/p>\n<p>[metaslider id=37016]<\/p>\n<p>Adding magnifying filters reduces depth of field, which helps you create a bokeh effect &#8212; the blurring of the background behind your subject. You can see the bokeh in your viewfinder and decide whether or not you like the result. It may take some experimentation with various lenses to see how the magnifying lenses alter your image.<\/p>\n<p>[metaslider id=37022]<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step-Up Ring:<\/strong> If you\u2019d rather not purchase separate filters for each lens you have, you can purchase an adaptor that lets you use a filter made for a larger lens on a smaller one. This may be a money-saver but it\u2019s not always convenient to transfer a filter from one lens to another in the middle of a shoot.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Sunshades:<\/strong> Designed to minimize flare that enters the lens, these simple devices also protect the lens. Putting a sunshade on every lens is simple since most lenses are packaged with a sunshade.<\/p>\n<p>[metaslider id=37034]<\/p>\n<p>Normally, you should have a UV filter and sunshade on every lens. If you want to add other filters, remove the sunshade and UV filter, then add the other filter. Be sure to carry the case for each filter so you don\u2019t damage or lose it. Some people have a filter pack that stores five or six filters in one case.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Despite the many ways we can improve our images with after-capture software programs, it\u2019s still a good idea to get the best possible results while you\u2019re shooting. It will save you lots of time and energy and you\u2019ll wind up with a stronger final product. One of the simplest ways to get those better images [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":11111142,"featured_media":37029,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[21,645,10715,17770,17780],"tags":[2429,15448,8849,10584,15449,15450],"class_list":["post-36863","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-gear","category-photography-645","category-photo-features","category-photography","category-photography-tips","tag-graduated-nd-filters-2429","tag-lens-filters","tag-magnification","tag-nd-filters","tag-setup-ring","tag-sunshades"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.0 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Filter Tips by Allen Rokach with Anne Millman - Adorama<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Despite the many ways we can improve our 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